The coast; Aviles – San Martin de Laspra (10km)

July 17, 2026

Today was a short day because a pilgrim recommended a donativo albergue, and it’s just outside of Aviles. They weren’t open yesterday so I decided to have a short day walking and spend the afternoon at the beach. All about slowing down this camino, and trying to absorb my surroundings.

***

I tried to force myself to sleep in, but at 6:30, most of the pilgrims were up and out. The rustling woke me. I started to slowly wake, deciding I would take myself out to a nice cafe. But first, I had to put on my wet clothes that didn’t dry because that’s what Norte does. Luckily, there was a hair dryer and I had all the time in the world and I tried to dry the clothes on my body.

After lingering in the cafe, I set out to do my first 5km. On the way, I ran into the edgy Italian couple (who were actually Italian and Spanish). We chatted for a bit and walked together, saw Aviles from afar.

I went up ahead and we split, and shortly I got to Salinas beach. This was a rush because seeing the ocean for the first time is always awe-inspiring, knowing you walked to it.

It was a little cloudy so I found another cafe where I splurged on a pastry and tostada (even though I wasn’t even that hungry after 5k). The edgy couple also popped into the bakery.

I was struggling to be still without walking.

I felt I needed to write. So I went to another cafe, that felt much more comfortable where I felt I could linger.

What I actually started doing was spiral trying to plan where I would sleep. Trying to map out my week. Trying to predict how many kilometers to walk with elevation and how my body might feel and trying to curate nice experiences and albergues. And it took so much time and energy and then I felt defeated again.

I decided to do one day at a time, and decide by feel. And changing my mind as many times as I need. Make as many reservations and cancellations as I would like.

Norte is really challenging me to do this differently than I want. It’s just not my style and I keep feeling like I’m making mistakes.

I watched the surfers to try to bring myself back.

Then I went to the beach, found a spot, and leaned on my backpack. I watched the waves and took out my journal to reflect.

It’s hard to change my mind and practicing this…

Norte feels like a holiday and not a camino. So I find myself planning it and booking it like a holiday. But what I was desperately craving was a soulful camino.

But what I asked for was to go inward. And that’s what camino gave me. So, I can’t be frustrated.

I tried to remember my intentions again…sanctuary, writing, partnership.

I am having loads of sanctuary time to write, and all these hard feeling to process.

After roasting in the sun with my thoughts, I was ready to check into my albergue.

I walked along the beach in my trail runners collecting shells and listening to my music. For a little bit, I remembered how to be free.

Out of the corner of my eye, I saw Belgian camper. I shouted his name, absolutely surprised! He was even more surprised. It’s crazy of the odds to run into someone like this. We started walking the same day in Burgos (day 1) and shifted to all the different Camino’s that I did, except he decided to stop doing camino and just go to the beach. What I didn’t know was that he was at my beach. We exchanged a short conversation and then he was heading to the beach, and I went to my albergue.

Sometimes I wonder if I should have stayed and talked with him more. Was this another connection I should have nurtured.

I doubted. I let it go.

After a climb up the hill, I arrived at a very picturesque albergue. The check-in was smooth and the place was cozy, but the energy felt like a little off.

The hospitaleros felt a little…removed; inconvenienced? Performative? Burnt-out?

It had potential for soul, but I couldn’t feel it. I mostly felt comfortable, but a little on edge. Like I couldn’t completely relax because I was in someone’s home.

I tried to meet and talk with some other pilgrims but they are seemed so young. Why am I not able to connect with anyone this week?

I keep missing the depth I had on Francés in the Meseta. I miss the soulful conversations and authenticity. And I am struggling. Because that’s not what I asked for this camino.

But I want it now and I’m hurting.

I feel more lonely than in real life.

Am I starting not to like Camino anymore?

I feel lost.

We had dinner, which was rice and a ratatouille and eggs. Very basic and made me feel meh about this place. I’m just so displeased lately.

At the dinner table I met a Dutch girl from Groningen, another American guy, a really young Canadian guy who also studied in my hometown, an autistic German guy, an American couple and two of the mean girls 2 and 3 from last albergue (another California and Barcelona – they lost their leader and I was so curious to know why, but didn’t feel confident enough to ask about the drama).

After dinner, we went to a lookout point.

I walked back, went to my room to get ready for bed, and two more pilgrims arrived late – a Ukrainian chaotic girl and another autistic German. These two were a camino couple and it was blatantly obvious when he said “we compliment each other perfectly”, when contrasting his autism with her spontaneity.

Their flirting made me uncomfortable. Repulsive.

But it was probably jealousy because why can’t I have a Camino partnership too?

I wanted to cry. My heart ached. I so badly want to meet a partner in real life…I thought he would find me on camino. Because that would be perfect, but that wasn’t happening.

Time for bed.

Surrender, I guess.

xoxo

Ness