The mountains; La Robla – Pajares (40km)

July 12, 2026

I knew I wanted to go far today. My body was craving a purge.

I had my alarm set at 4 am, 4:30am, and 4:45am. I didn’t hear them go off until 4:33. I hoped that it was quiet enough that the others didn’t wake. But they all looked fast asleep.

I quietly got ready, ate my breakfast, and started the walk in the dark. The road was lit, and it was mostly along a quiet road.

The sun started to rise and I was by some train tracks. Everything was closed and quiet. Nobody was around. There was a lot of walking on asphalt. The sound of electricity.

I kept saying under my breath, “this is boring”.

I went through a few villages, but nothing open. No stamps. No snacks. No coffee. Low motivation.

I felt like this was work, but it’s a sleepy sunday morning. 

At least my body temperature was good. 

But so much road walking. 

“Boring”.

This is terrain designed for confronting life face first. For destruction.

But after Buiza, it started to climb and suddenly I was awestruck by the mountains right in front of me. The climb started by 10am, after 15km on village roads. 

It’s amazing what a climb can do. Suddenly the views began to reveal a spectacular mountain line.

I passed through some small mountain villages, but not much water, or food stops. Just me and the mountains. I saw a couple of pilgrims at the beginning, but I quickly passed them.

I was entranced by the views, and I wanted them all for myself.

I guess this is what people chase on San Salvador – the vastness.

I absorbed the views, awestruck. I was so present and didn’t care about anything else.

The temperature fluctuated, but mostly it was windy and warm.

I started to worry I would run out of water after the second climb.

A decent and I reached a viewpoint with a cafe. A couple of pilgrims were there, and I wondered where they came from. I got two Coca-Cola’s and chugged them. I was so dehydrated; I ran out of water and still had 10 km to go, but it was all downhill.

I messaged the albergue to see if there are any beds and she said no problem. I arrived at 4:30 PM, really proud of myself after that push. I felt so calm and peaceful and grateful accepting. I was a dirty sponge this morning, but at the end, I was wrung out and fresh again.

Exhausted, but revitalized.

The hospitalera came and opened the door. I was first (again). I didn’t like it. I wanted to see more pilgrims. But I got to pick my bed first and shower.

While I was showering, a young blond Spanish guy checked in. Followed by a mother and her son with developmental delays. It turns out we were all at the viewpoint at the same time. But my Coca-Cola made me fly.

After the shower, hand wash and rest ritual. The 4 of us had a pilgrim menu (15€) at the bar. Dinner was more expensive than my 8€ bed.

The clouds appeared out of nowhere after dinner, swallowing the peaks and covering us in a misty veil.

Absolutely exhausted, I started to enjoy the peace and quiet of fewer pilgrims. The cooler temperature was also nice.

I decided to do 15km tomorrow, same as blond Spanish (also a teacher – highschool math). Balance. Plus, it was called sanctuary (signs!).

I felt comfortable with this group. Not inspired, but comfy. Maybe that’s what I needed here all along.

Not that spark, but safety.

I fell asleep in 5 seconds.

xoxo surrender