The desert; León (0km)

July 10, 2026

Polish and I made plans to have breakfast together and then head to Decathlon to do some shopping. I tried to sleep in, with no luck; 7am was the best I could do.

After breakfast, we took a leisurely 30 minute walk in our flip flops. I needed to get a light rain jacket for the coastal weather and Polish was looking for sandals. He popped into my aisle and helped me pick my jacket, efficiently cross-referencing price and use. He’s got great judgement.

We took the scenic river walk back towards the old town. On the way, we popped into the large grocery store. I took my time wandering the aisles and enjoying the AC.

We picked up some sushi to have as a picnic just outside, watching pilgrims arrive.

I saw Bretagne, which was a welcome surprise.

On our way back to the center, I ran into Belgium camper. I thought he was in front of me, but he was behind and took a train. I was so happy to see him. His plan was to also walk San Salvador tomorrow.

We came back to the albergue to take our daily siesta.

The day lingered and was slow; a welcome change but also had my mind wandering. I started to journal and get sad. Tomorrow I would have to say goodbye to all my friends. I was the only one splitting off.

Polish gave me space to write, process and reflect on poetry.

Afterwards, we went for a slow walk. More beers and tapas and getting to know each other better. I really enjoyed spending time with him and how easy it was. How we chose to spend time together. And how the most simple of tasks just felt effortless. I didn’t have to think. I was just present in each moment. We hopped from bar to bar before ending up at the cosmetic store.

When I painted my toes a coral colour, it instantly felt wrong. I associate colours to Camino and this one is blue and green. So Polish patiently waited for me as I purchased my blue nail polish and remover.

We walked back to the albergue to pack our bags and get ready for tomorrow. I also gave myself a blue pedicure. We went back out to meet more pilgrims for beers and tapas and watching the Spain-Belgium match.

As we sat outside with Polish, Korean 1 and Korean 2, the sky started to get dark. The lightening and thunder peppered the sky as we watched the match from across the street.

Joyful. Even though my heart was sad and some tears came up, I was so profoundly grateful for this moment.

We stayed until the end of the game, then walked around the center to see the celebrations. We dropped off the Koreans and retreated to bed.

Tomorrow, there is a fork in the road.

xoxo surrender