July 7, 2026

Hard camino days help to contrast and appreciate good camino days. And then there is camino euphoria.

***

My sleep was awful. We decided the temperature might drop enough and turned off the AC. Grave error. I felt like a sweaty toddler waking up in the middle of the night with a fever. My sign to wake up and walk.

I wanted to walk first and I wanted to walk alone. I was up by 4:35am and had my morning routine down to a science.

As I was getting my bag ready, I noticed the bottom was soaked. PTSD. My water bladder. From my first Camino, this happened for a few days before I noticed the hole. I had two choices: keep walking and hope I have enough water for the 37 degree heat or unpack my whole bag and try to find the leak.

I chose to risk it and trust. I figured the scorching sun would dry it and there would be enough water on the way.

I was walking by 5:15am – first one out of my albergue.

I’ve been putting my peppermint halo on my feet before bed and I feel it’s been so refreshing and rejuvenates my feet so well for the next day. Reset. I’ve had no issues.

***

As I was walking alone in the dark, I immediately felt uncomfortable because I was thinking about my bag. I was not rested. I hadn’t had any coffee or any food and was walking on an empty stomach, (which makes it hard to stay present). I noticed that I also saw many pilgrims in front of me and behind me, and in the mornings, I don’t like that. I don’t like having everyone around me; it feels claustrophobic. I struggled to be present, but witnessed one of the most beautiful sunrises of my life brought my mind back into my body.

I finally got to a village, had my breakfast tortilla, and after that, I went on an alternative route and I felt much better. 

It was spacious. Fewer pilgrims. And blossoming sunflowers. I took my time to bask.

Friends on camino have started calling me sunflower. I guess I planted that seed but nothing is more endearing than a camino nickname.

***

After some time, I ran into a father and son walking. I remember seeing them in Burgos before I started walking and always feel amazed when kids walk the Camino. The father was also an educator. We talked about the conversations they’ve been having on their walks, the growth and the journaling, and mentally preparing to integrate the journey at home with mom.

***

In the next big town, Sahagún, I stopped for brunch. I walked into a quiet bar and so joyfully ordered everything in Spanish: a coffee, two croquetas, and a coke. Some caffeine and some carbs and protein to help me fly. I had a lovely conversation with the bar tender and it felt like camino magic.

I started walking to get back on the Camino before it got too hot but noticed my hand was really itchy and starting to spread. I got a bee sting two days prior and it didn’t bother me. But today, it started to react.

I got nervous and quickly checked for a pharmacy. I got some hydrocortisone cream and right as I was leaving, I saw the Irish Australian couple that I met in the candlelight albergue. I remember her mentioning she was a nurse. She looked at my hand and gave me an antihistamine and reassured me. She also said she loved my blue shorts. I instantly loved her back.

Camino mother.

Camino magic.

***

I felt well enough to walk. I walked alone in tree tunnel, clouds popping in and out. The weather was cooling. I was in flow state.

I quickly reached my donativo at 12:30. I instantly felt welcome. I noticed the Polish man was there and it comforted me. There was also a large group of Spaniards who I was so proud to make jokes with. Camino is the best place for language immersion; I will die on that hill.

Had free pasta with Spaniards, leftovers from the night before at the albergue. It was the best tuna pasta salad I’ve ever had. The appetite you work up on Camino is insane. Bottomless pit.

We checked in, showered, laundry, tried to nap, but the bed beside me was snoring like a truck. I made eyes with the pilgrims in the bunks beside me and we all quietly giggled.

Camino sleepover.

This was my first bigger albergue and I met lots of fun new pilgrims, including two Korean women in the bunk bed beside me.

The hospitaleros (volunteers running the albergue) helped to mobilize the pilgrims to peel potatoes and cut vegetables. We all started cooking dinner together. There is something so joyful about that. We are all laughing and navigating the kitchen. It’s so fun to participate and it really brings us together as a camino family.

Once dinner was cooking, the wind picked up and it looked like a desert wind storm. Luckily I had already collected my laundry, because 5 minutes later, it started to rain.

I took a short nap and Polish and I decided to go to the store and pick up some beers to sneak inside. I got to use my umbrella for the first time. I smiled. This moment was perfect. This day was everything a perfect camino day is for me – home, connection and reflection.

We sat on the hardwood floor by the window near our bunkbeds and Polish and the two Koreans and I drank beers and ate almonds before dinner. Laughing and giggling while others around us were napping. Euphoria.

I knew it was time to give two more camino sunflower tokens to the Koreans.

By the time it was dinner, we were already properly tipsy and laughing at the table where they served more wine. The inside jokes were overspilling and these were my people and I loved this moment.

I felt infinite and I wanted to be in the albergue forever. It reminded me of Grañón – the most impactful donativo albergue of my life. It showed me the true spirit of camino. To compare another albergue to this caliber was a big statement.

I felt home.

After dinner, we went to the chapel for a reflection where a candle was passed around and everyone could share anything they wanted about the camino so far. These moments always make me cry – it showcases the best of best of humanity.

We sat outside and the young Toulouse guy played guitar and we all sang wonderwall and watched sunset before going back inside for curfew, brushing our teeth, and waiting for lights out.

A perfect camino day, tied in a bow.

Euphoric.

This internal landscape would be a sunset peak of a mountain surrounded by ocean. I was flying, but also profoundly grounded.

xoxo sweet sweet surrender 🌻